Zodie

Well the big day came and what a surprise. I had the motor in storage for about 8 months. When I first got the motor, I opened it up to take a look at the throttle linkage to set up the firewall. Some how water leaked in and pooled in the bottom of the bag around the starter.

What I think happened was I put some desiccant in a bag in the plastic but did not seal the plastic bag up. Rather than absorbing water in a closed environment it must have absorbed a lot of water and then let it drip down to the bottom...... Crap. The only water damage was to the starter which was in the low point in the bag. I will replace it. After a lot of inspection nothing else was wet but the starter. The rest of the motor is sealed up.

It has really been wet here in Kansas the last 6 months or so. Amazing.

Lesson Learned. Don't use dissident in an open bag.

Well moving right along the mounting went fairly easy. I used the video from Homebuilthelp.com and that was a lot of help. Notice the arrangement of the top and bottom mounts. It needs to be like this so that the motor is always riding on the male part of the mount on the ground.

You also need to trim one of the mounts to allow for the magneto wire.

I barrowed a friends motor lift. This helped some. But it really is not that heavy. I could have done it with two other people. two holding the motor and one putting in the nuts. With the lift two of us were able to mount it. (Thanks John. John is building a wood cub. Looks great!)

OK enough gawking. Time to do something. So I pulled the prop flange. A piece of Oak and a couple of bolts worked well to hold the flange

The new flange is installed. The directions from Jabiru say it is near impossible to safety wire the fasteners. I used the med thread lock like they said. I was able to sort of safety wire it also. They are correct it is tough.

Got the new starter from Jabiru. It was a little expensive. But I am sure glad I went a head and replaced it. I pulled the distributors and some other areas to check for corrosion. Nothing else is really impacted.

Originally I had a radiator hose but heard about some problems with it collapsing under vacume.

Click to see the new installation. It will work fine.

Now that I have the hose connecting the box to the carb. I can locate the air box. I have it at a slight angle to make room for the hose on the side.

Here you can see the increased clearance.

Now to hookup the Carb Heat cable. I really wasn't happy with how it would open. The angle that it comes with the cable in the center, as seen above, makes it very hard to completely open.

I moved it over some and remade the bracket. The center is closer to the pivot. This makes it much easier to open and the action is much better. Here you can see it with the carb heat knob in, no heat.

Here you can see it with the carb heat pulled, Open. Notice the angle of the wire.

Now on to the carb. Again I an not happy with the action. It is a bit stiff. I also wasn't happy with the clearance on the fuel hose. I moved the bracket out and the angles are better, the action smoother, and more clearance on the fuel hose.

So I made a new bracket. I removed the distributor cap to get better access. I also wanted to check for any water. Clean and dry!

Here you can see the hook up of the throttle and the choke.

I didn't like the friction in the choke. So I moved it lower on the firewall. The takes out a bend and the action of the lever is much better

A much straighter route.

Here I have clecoed the bracket for the fuel pressure indicator and cut the fuel hose. I have the sensor located between the mechanical pump and the carb.

Here is a view of the final installation.

And a larger view.

I tilted the oil breather to fit easier in the cowl

Here you can see the clear tube that connects to the air box

The connection to the carb itself is kind of crowded. I used a zip tie to secure the hose that goes to the air box. You can also see the rub guard I put on the fuel line.

I tried and tried to assemble the braded hose for the oil cooler. I tried many techniques but each time it would bloom and just not get a good connection. Since this is very critical, I decided to order some custom made hoses from Spruce. These work well and are pressure tested. I also got them with fire seal.

Another view. I will secure it later.

I read some email posts about checking the angles on the motor. I wish I had done this sooner. But luckily it is right on. I my handy dandy laser level and a protractor.

The engine is supposed to be parallel to the canopy rail. So I lined up the level and shot the plotter. It is a little hard to read in this pic, But it is right on "0"

It is supposed to be 3 degrees off set, as you can see it is very close to 3 degrees.

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