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Left wing Part 1

See the Right wing for some lessons learned and tips I wish I had done before you started.

Lights.  I am using an LED system from GS Air at

https://ssl.perfora.net/gs-air.com

and a 50 mm 75 watt halogen landing and taxi light from Creative air at

  http://www.creativair.com/cva/

 

Everything is here and ready to start.

 

Cut the holes for the fuel system in the first 3 nose ribs.  This is the new design with 3 ribs rather than 4 and the fuel sender on the side of the tank.

Took some time to locate the ribs.  The angle drill came in handy again.

 

Cut and cleaned the bellcrank supports

 

A view of the nose ribs

 

Cool shot.  I guess it is lined up and true.

 

Attached the Supports.  Used the tape to allow for a little clearance.  Then I realized that I didn't have the bushing.  Put the bushing and it worked great.

 

Took a while to locate the ribs. Ended up measuring the center line of the rivet line in the skins and transferred it to the spar caps. Then lined up the ribs on the lines. Some of the ribs are not flat so had to move them around a bit to line up. This resulted in an oblong hole or two. Added a backing plate for these holes. That should be sufficient.

 

 

Transferred rivet line to the aft spar like on the forward. It was much easier to locate the ribs.  Note the lines.  Here is also a look at the doubler

 

All primed.  This took a while.  There is a lot of surface area.  I just primed the edges of the ribs.  Really no need to do the whole thing.

 

I was about to start assembling after letting it dry for about an hour.  I picked up some of the parts and they felt dry.  But ya know when you start rushing ya start to make mistakes.  Decided to take a break and let things dry overnight.  I am planning on riveting the everything but the nose ribs.  I will wait on those till after the skins are on.

 

Ok time to assemble.  I wanted to fay surface seal the critical joints.  This gives a slight increase in shear strength and helps will corrosion control.  I used Clear RTV and put a thin even coat.

NOTE: Don't do this.  The tech counselor pointed out that RTV can be corrosive on AL.  The acetic acid, which makes the vinegar smell, is the bad stuff in RTV.  I had it primed but ended up drilling it out and cleaning it up.

The joint is complete for the bellcrank brackets.
Woops.  Here I had a misdrilled hole on on of the ribs.  I decided to use a backing plate and fay seal it.

Here is the complete joint. The danger of the misdrilled hole could be a lack of bearing strength, a tension failure (pull out), or shear.  The ribs are really not in tension since the skins will react that.  So shear and bearing are the concerns.  The backing plate should adequately distribute the load.

 

 
 

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