Zodie

Now that I have it all together. I wanted to move the rudders forward just a little. When I did this I definitely have a clearance problem with my throttle placement. But I have better leg room. So I will change how I hook into the throttle. This will cut the lever arm in half.

Here is the original throttle arm with the extension. The reason for this is to give more throw with the push pull throttle. But since I have my lever throttle. I will have sufficient throw.

Here is another view. The only problem is that the stop will not fit in the hole for the throttle.

I cut down the bushing and will use this other type of stop.

Here you can see the assembly.

I was then able to trim the arm

I am now using the hole for the heater control. I may put the choke in the same hole. But I think it may need to go a little higher.

I started out painting it tan. But didn't look good, too many colors. So I used appliance paint. This took a while to dry, but it looks good now.

I used a Brother label maker with 3/8 TZ tape. It worked well.

Another view

Switches starting to come together.

Installed, temporarily

Looks good

Lots o Wires.

CB panel

From the back. You can see the brass bus bars I used. The 2 on the lower right are the flap and starter. The lower left are the avionics bus, one of the tabs will go to a fuse panel. The top row is the Endurance bus. and you can see the diode also.

From the back you can see how they are wired

Here is the shunt, you can also see the leads for the Ammeter with the in line fuse. Next is the starter contactor.

Moving down is the relay and the Capacitor.

Here are all the wires going through the firewall.

Here is the heater. I needed to make a clamp for the cable.

Here you can see it mounted. I had to slant it to get better clearance on the battery for the cable.

You can see the other side of the firewall. The hole I cut was kind of sloppy so I made a doubler.

Here is the bracket I made to hold the cable

A view of the bracket. I need to install the canopy rails before install the instrument panel and the top skin.

The rear bracket. This took some pondering. I was concerned that there is no way to remove the gas strut once the bracket is installed. I called up ZAC and they confirmed that you have to install the rod end before you rivet this bracket. Then just screw the rod end into the jack when you need to install or uninstall the gas strut.

Another view

Now on to the fwd top skin.

I am going to have cutouts with hatches held in by 1/4 turn fasteners. This will allow access behind the panel.

I have the top bracket underneath so the hinges will be installed between this bracket and the top skin. I have the hinges in place to drill the holes

Couple of new items. I hooked up the cable for the heater box. One thing I noticed is that the off position is with the knob pulled and the full heat will be pushed in. I also did the firewall penetration for the fuel. You can see this fitting in blue.

Here you can see the routing of the heater cable plus the installation of throttle. A lot more clearance is now available for the rudder pedals. The top tube will be for the choke.

Here is the final install of the throttle

I also tensioned the nose gear bungee. This was fairly easy. I just used a piece of oak and leveraged it up. Went on like a snap.

Back to Home page