Forward Fuselage
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| The seat back and gear channel went quick | |
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| Laid out the locations for the studs that will attach the motor mount. Checked this 3 times. It would be nice to have the motor mount and use it to line these up. But I won't get that for a while. The plans, the photo guide, and the other builders didn't seem to do this. So I just measured..... Three times. | |
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| The L angle on the top wouldn't quite fit. I went and used my brake to make a new angle. | |
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| Used a hole saw in my drill press to drill this hole. That did a much nicer job than the fly cutter. | |
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| I noticed that ZAC has changed the design for the top stiffener. Here is the original design and the parts that came with the kit. (per rev 2, 5th edition) | |
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| ZAC added an angle to the front, a plate and increased the size of the gusset. I think this is to beef this up for nose wheel loads. I am planning on doing about the same thing. I sent them an email. The nose gear is very stiff in the bearings. I noticed when I was flying one of the XLs that the rudder was kind of stiff. I now attribute this to this friction. I also asked ZAC what they recommend for this area. | |
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| A top view of the mod. You notice that I drilled the top angle. There wasn't a no rivet zone called out here on this part. Probably should be. I can fix it with a little creative spacing on the gussets on the other side. | |
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I emailed ZAC and got this response about the mod to the stiffener: "For the S-LSA aircraft (used for flight training) we decided to use the same firewall reinforcement current in use on the CH2000. Please note there is no problem with the previous stiffener - this is what we have on our demo with over 970 hours." So I will not do this mod. Always good to check with
the experts. |
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| I got this tip from Kent Bauer. I needed something to seal the slots for the nose wheel steering rods. I used fiberglass cloth and High Temp RTV. I spread it out on a piece of wax paper. I used 2 layers of fiberglass, squeegee in the RTV and let it dry. Worked very well. | |
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| I then cut a thin piece of steel to match the slot and then will trim the seal to fit. Should work slick. | |
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| Laid out the forward floor and rudder assembly. Wow it is starting to look like something. I was going to move the pedals forward like a lot of folks had. I found out that with my revision of the drawings, the forward position is the standard. | |
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| I clamped on the longerons and center brace. Then put the 2X4 spacers to allow me to drill. Should work. Measured everything twice. Will probably measure it one more time before I drill. | |
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Laid out the fuel components to see where they fit. I wanted
to make sure I didn't drill some place I wanted to place a component.
I am going to locate the fuel selector close to the bottom of the cabin.
I am concerned about forcing the fuel up to the valve. I think it
will be better to have constant head pressure. I ordered a 6"
extension from: http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html Notice that I have the center wing section backwards. Didn't notice till after I took the pic |
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| Here are the rudder pedals and brakes all installed. | |
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| A look with the wing going the correct way. | |
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| It was time to move off the table. I really liked the utility of this table. But I don't have room for it and need a different approach for the fuse. | |
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| It came apart easy. Sad to see it go | |
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| Moved it on to these saw horses but they are too high. | |
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| Made some saw horses that are lower and put it on wheels. I like the ability to move it. This requires leveling but Winter is getting close and I do want to park in the garage occasionally | |
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| Another view. I drilled and clecoed the firewall. I used the angle drill to drill pilots from the top. The redrilled from underneath. Starting to look like something. | |